Door Threshold / September 18, 2018 / Pauline Francoeur.
Theres something about thinking and working in three planes that appeals to me. Making customers happy and feeling comfortable in their home environment makes me happy too. Nothing can compare to the satisfaction of knowing a job has been well done seeing and feeling a beautiful and properly installed door operate smoothly. In modern homebuilding techniques most housing built here in the Salt Lake City area after the mid-1960s is 2x4 or 2x6 wood stick frame construction with an exterior veneer of brick stucco or some type of lap siding. Prior to that time many if not most homes around here were built using four inch wide cinderblock (4"x8"x16") masonry walls with a brick exterior veneer. Thermal efficiency properties of new door systems have improved greatly over what was available forty or fifty years ago.
Currently the best tape on the market T-X268 is a specialty tape that combines UV chemicals in both the tape and adhesive so it wont break down with ultra violet light. There are additional tapes available for sill protection as well including those made with blue polyvinylchloride. The cost to protecting doors jambs and thresholds are well worth the small investment. The average cost for a cardboard door protector one cardboard jamb protector and tape for the threshold is less than 25.00 The cost to replace just a door alone can range from several hundred dollars to several thousand dollars.
They are known to flake and chip when exposed to sunlight and are often cited for creating more work than the protection provided. These low quality 2 or 3 mil. tapes often leave a sticky adhesive residue on thresholds as the adhesive used in the tapes softens in warm temperatures. Another option is to use fitted threshold protection made from molded plastic. The molded plastic threshold protectors are designed to protect the most common types of thresholds in residential or commercial construction. They are the most durable type of threshold protection and can be used for multiple projects.
But what about retrofitting a new entry door system in an older home built with cinderblock masonry walls? You cant use the same technique of just nailing through the jambs the masonry will just deflect and bend a regular framing nail. Cut nails might possibly work but the chances for jambs alignment adjustments are slim to zero while the chances of masonry cracks or half-moon hammer head marks in the jambs are almost a given. Masonry screws need to be started in pre-drilled cinderblock holes which can be drilled through the jamb but Ive never been satisfied with their holding power alone where the cinderblock is prone to crumble around the holes while adjusting screws and snugging shims tight. Experience has taught me to always insert plastic expansion sleeves in the cinderblock to properly fasten masonry screws.